It’s almost impossible to reserve a table at this small spot on the corner of a sunny square at the foothills of the São Jorge Castle, but if you’re there early—which means 12:30 for lunch or 7pm for dinner—you’ll likely be able to snag a seat. Share the piglet empanada and three or four other plates while listening to Portuguese rock music inside, or attempt to balance on the cobblestones at the outdoor tables. Plan to come by after a morning visit to the castle, or before heading into Alfama for some fado at night.