Once you get over the fear of being done for trespassing, a visit to Maureen’s Brixton Kitchen is about as nourishing as it gets. The Jamaican spot’s Instagram offers a few choice words to find its crispy fried chicken and tender curry goat: “Look out for the jerk pans in the yard”. After a tentative poke of your head into Maureen’s front garden on Railton Road, you’ll find a bustling home kitchen that’s been turned into a full-on catering setup. Maureen is in the heart of it all with a couple of helping hands. Trays of golden deep-fried chicken are passed around, dumplings bob in a big pot of oil, and somewhere a phone rings while another is being answered. Calling to find out what’s on is smart, and ordering ahead is even smarter, but you can always come by and be in the heart of the busy kitchen. Just try not to get in the way. Don’t be surprised to see people nip in and out. Or to find the dining table used as a makeshift pickle-prepping station. Maureen’s is a home (takeaway) kitchen, after all. Food-wise though, it’s restaurant-quality. The jerk chicken is smoky but falls apart on the fork, the curry goat is wonderfully balanced, and the fried chicken is crisp on the outside with that indefinable moreish quality all the best fried chicken has. Come summer, this yard is no doubt a spot—especially now there's some seating outside. That said, swinging by Maureen’s most days is a very good idea.
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