The smoky haze at Soot Bull Jip falls somewhere between a backyard bonfire and a heavy metal concert after the pyrotechnics go off. This decades-old Koreatown institution is one of the only KBBQ spots left in LA that still uses lump charcoal in its grills, and the resulting smoke fills every corner of the restaurant and infuses into every fiber of your clothing. That does mean you should probably plan your hair-washing schedule around a meal here, but the flecks of ash in the air are a small price to pay—one bite of their smoky, char-marked galbi and you’ll understand why Soot Bull Jip still insists on doing things the traditional way. In true old-school fashion, there aren’t any combos on Soot Bull Jip's meat-focused menu, just a short list of cuts like pork ribs, bulgogi, and short ribs, plus a few Korean barbecue-friendly dishes like cold noodles and tofu stews. The charcoal adds a deep, rich smokiness that boosts any of their high-quality meats, but the marinated galbi and pork ribs—which arrive at the table dripping with sauce and sizzle loudly when they hit the grill—should be your top priority. The salty-sweet marinade soaks up the smoke flavor like a sponge and creates a gorgeous char around the edges that you'd never get from gas alone. Between the soju shots and smoke wafting through the room like a special effect, this is KBBQ in its full primal glory.