Don’t be deterred by the doggy daycare and multi-story parking lot flanking Esh’s nondescript entrance. You’ll experience a Lion, Witch and Wardrobe-level transfiguration as you step into this Fairfield Middle Eastern restaurant’s cavernous, moody space, with a soundtrack straight from a Tel Aviv beach club. A roaring wood-burning oven in the middle of the open kitchen churns out steaming, pillowy flatbreads that pair perfectly with whichever dips speak to your soul—they’re all solid, especially the spicy feta. Feel free to over-order the appetizers here, our favorite section of the menu other than the dips. We’re obsessed with the Moroccan cigars, which are filled with meltingly tender, warmly spiced beef and encrusted in layers of crackling phyllo dough. For something more substantial, the crispy-skinned branzino with herby green sauce is our go-to entree. Service can be a little slow, so get a bottle of Israeli red wine and enjoy the multisensory show while you wait.