For more than a decade, Chef Alex Crabb has cooked to the beat of his own drum on a quiet strip of Back Bay. The minimalist space is little more than exposed brick, a gold-painted tin-pressed ceiling, and a curved chef’s counter overlooking a tidy open kitchen. The tasting menu, meanwhile, is not easy to pin down, as dishes change on a whim, often in the same week, and at times are more conceptual than coherent. Nevertheless, this relaxed team is full of ideas, and chefs deliver dishes themselves. Recent highlights include herb-crusted John Dory with grapes, dry-aged duck with chicory, and chawanmushi with pickled cabbage, bacon, and black truffle. A handwritten wine list adds to the charm of this fine dining veteran.