We love the kotatsu tables at this Japanese restaurant on the LES—it's a lovely date-night move where you can sip sake, eat some sashimi or agedeshi tofu, and play footsy under the table. There are a lot of different directions you can take with the menu at Yopparai, but standouts are any of the chirashi and the dip-it-yourself shabu-shabu selections (we like the octopus option since we can make sure it’s not overcooked). The sushi rolls are always changing, but we’ve had delicious versions stuffed with smoky trout and roe as well as salmon with sweet egg and eel and crunchy vegetables. Our biggest complaint here is that dinner can get pricey quick. Most sashimi sets are over $50, and even without drinking any sake, the bill here easily lands at about $80 per person. But the quality of the fish is excellent, and the specials are always interesting (like you, raw cubes of octopus marinated in fresh wasabi). Plus, the space is extra quiet (with smooth jazz from the '40s echoing in the back) and the kotatsu tables are extra roomy.