Given its location on the top floor of the Bok Building—a defunct South Philly high school built in 1936–you may get the feeling you’ve walked into a time capsule when you get to Irwin’s. Lockers and graffiti still line the halls of the building, yearbooks double as wallpaper, and vintage furniture fills both the dining room and balcony of the Sicilian restaurant. On most nights, the scenery and city skyline are more of a wow than the food itself—except when it comes to Salvatore’s Counter, the tiny chef’s counter inside the restaurant. There you’ll find creative and nostalgic dishes that standout far more than the view. That’s not to say that the experience at Irwin’s is bad. Dates share the refreshing fennel salad and briny spaghetti and clams, and friends catch up over ultra-crispy frito misto in a cozy, plant-filled corner. During the summer, it becomes a hot ticket for anybody who wants to celebrate anything on one of Philly’s best rooftops. But that shouldn’t take precedence over the beautifully charred agrodolce chicken and the dreamy milk and honey gelato, two standouts on an otherwise reliable but unexceptional menu. If you’re looking for exceptional, you need a seat at the counter. In a way, the $250, 12-course menu mirrors the throwback surroundings—it features Sicilian twists on each diner’s nostalgic food of choice. If you’re lucky enough to nab one of the four seats for the Sunday-only affair, the team reaches out ahead of time to get your sentimental dish wishlists, and maybe the name of your old imaginary friend. The couple next to you might enjoy fried oysters that remind them of summers down the shore, while a frigid Concord grape sorbet takes you back to a time when Uncrustables were the star of your lunches. Well-brined ribs sprinkled with broccoli rabe flowers put your uncle's ribs to shame, in terms of both tenderness and pizazz. Unlike some other chefs’ counters, Salvatore’s never feels showy. It’s a graceful, meticulous operation, all delivered on the chef’s great-grandmother’s dishes. The dinner takes a little over two hours, so a stroll on the outdoor terrace with a Negroni or glass of wine tends to happen between courses. That view, paired with a thoughtful, well-executed menu, elevates your night from good to limited edition. While the dishes in the main restaurant aren’t as impressive or awe-inspiring as those that come from the counter, there’s a time and a place for both. Think of Irwin’s as your fun, (vintage) high school crush. Salvatore’s is more like the one you want to marry.