You can’t really say you’ve been to Melbourne if you haven’t spent a few hours in the afternoon sun outside the MoL. Patrons spill out of the multi-level pub and into the street, hands wrapped around glasses of natural wine, frosty pots (glasses of beer) and half-price happy hour tinnies (cans of beer), many of them produced nearby. Inside, punters and their greyhounds laze in the dog-friendly front bar, ordering classic chicken parm and the mainstay rockling burger—battered fish on buttery brioche with just the right ratio of crunch to compressibility. Or try the potato cakes with chili salt, a ritzier version of what you’ll find at fish-and-chip shops along the Australian coastline.