Across from swanky bars and antique furniture shops where forks masquerade as chairs sits Casa Fiori Chiari. It’s a lively neo-trattoria where people-watching is just as much on the menu as pizza—Milan’s best dressed tend to show up for their vitello tonnato and pizza, of course. Though everything is quite good, our ideal order includes splitting a few pies, like a diavola rossa topped with fiery, ruby-red spianata. The pizza arrives perched high on stands with a thin crust to support a coy layer of sauce and a bold amount of toppings. The pies are so good, you may forget to defend their famous spaghetti al pomodoro from wandering forks.