The waiting room at Tommaso’s feels like a family reunion on loop. As soon as someone walks in, they’re greeted with hugs from other guests, or a staff member will enthusiastically rush out from the kitchen. This North Beach old-school Italian institution has been feeding generations of families since 1935, and the vibe here reflects that. Expect to chat with your neighbors and swap a glass of wine with them for a slice of pizza, and be sure to join the rest of the diners when a round of “Happy Birthday” starts—and don’t be surprised if you’re offered a slice of cake in return. But make sure to save room for the incredible tiramisu that is one of the best you’ll get in the city. Everything on the menu is solid, but you’ll want to focus on the pizzas and pasta dishes, especially the lasagna that’s covered in a just-salty-enough red sauce and the sausage and mushroom pie with meat rounds that are big enough to play checkers with. There are no reservations, and this place is typically full within an hour of opening, so your best shot is to arrive right when they open at 5pm.