Beigel Bake is a 24-hour London landmark. A bit like Brixton McDonald’s, but without the sense of peril. The Spitalfields bakery has been here since the 1970s and has watched a lot of change occur around it, for better and worse, all while still serving the same, chewy, dependable, Jewish-style beigels. On weekends it’s one, big, snaking, u-shaped queue that never seems to subside, but always moves quickly. In the back kitchen you’ll see rows and rows of beigels boiled and arranged on wooden planks ready for baking. There’s moisture and bready-ness in the air, as well as the sound of a clueless tourist being gruffly ordered to move up the queue. Move fast but don’t ignore the sweet treats under the counter. The chocolate slice is a delight. You’re best off keeping things classic here. Smoked salmon and cream cheese, made better with a squeeze of fake lemon juice and a dash of dusty white pepper. Bring a New Yorker here and they’ll likely be appalled. But this is a London beigel. And these golden-crusted, chewy bagels are immense. Most people come for the salt beef and mustard and, over the years, the portion has evened out and the English mustard has got less fiery. Still the meat pulls away in soft pink strands and a gherkin never goes amiss. There’s a reason this place is always worth a pilgrimage, for Londoners and visitors alike.