A brand new Roman grand hotel is rare indeed, but the next best thing is a makeover like the Rocco Forte Hotel de la Ville, which transformed a rather staid luxury hotel by the Spanish Steps into the kind of self-aware fantasy that’s a Forte specialty. It’s on a fine line between tasteful elegance and a slightly over-the-top opulence, without ever feeling kitschy or stuffy. Meanwhile the comforts are first-rate, and the cuisine is a particular delight, featuring a fine-dining restaurant by Fulvio Pierangelini as well as a stunning rooftop terrace and a classic Roman trattoria.