Ama is the third restaurant inside the Transamerica Pyramid from the same chef behind Cafe Sebastian and MadLab, and it’s an itameshi spot with a flair for the dramatic. The arancini is gold flaked, a lobster diavolo is ceremoniously topped tableside with yuzu cream, and the gigantic miso and black sesame tiramisu seems bottomless. But it’s not just style over substance. Like with the single, parmesan fondue-crowned wagyu meatball that’s rich and tender enough to effortlessly glide a fork through, Ama's combinations of Italian and Japanese ingredients are often unexpected, but fine-tuned. The space also carries the same kind of drama. The barely-lit Copper Room is moody, with just a handful of bar seats and couples asking about what top-shelf liquor is available. Where we suggest you book a seat, though, is in the “Social Club” in the back, with a curtain-lined entrance. It’s bright and open, channeling a glitzy ‘70s hangout with curved booths and velvet couches, and even a couple of retro pinball machines. It does, indeed, feel like an exclusive club, down to a personalized greeting card at every table and a no-photos policy (unless it’s of the food). There are other itameshi restaurants in SF, but none are as flashy as this one—if you’ve got a new outfit to show off and aren’t worried about a molten cheese stain, this is the place.