Slide onto a counter stool at Deposito Enoteca after a busy day of shopping on Corso Buenos Aires. The space looks like an industrial warehouse had a spa day, with brick arches and hundreds of bottles stacked on industrial shelves, and just enough polish to feel intentional. Instead of sorting the wines solely by region or grape, the menu includes sections like “floral and fruity whites” and “leathery and spicy reds,” complete with flavor notes beneath each label. The amberjack crudo, bone marrow, and ragù of the day are great staples, but what makes us stay for dinner is the whole section of vegetable dishes, which is rare in Italian wine bars. Order a few shareable, produce-forward plates like garlicky grilled cabbage or watermelon that is pressed, marinated, and grilled until it becomes umami, like fruit cosplaying as carpaccio.