Located in a sparkling office structure, local legend Chef Atsushi Hayakawa's slick lair hosts a mere handful of diners per seating. His stage is a backdrop of dark-streaked stone and a silken wood counter; and his banter with guests displays Hayakawa's buoyant personality. Rotating with the seasons and changing weekly, the meal is a procession of small courses and hews toward the structure of kaiseki. After items such as a delicate and classic chawanmushi with sweet scallops to start and octopus with seaweed in a piquant vinegar sauce, it's time for sushi. The chef crafts nigiri from imported fish that needs little embellishment and is amply sized in the tradition of Hokkaido style in deference to the chef's hometown.