If you visit the Chinatown location of 1915 Lanzhou Hand Pulled Noodles & Dumplings with someone else, make sure to let them have the street-facing seat. That way, when you sit across from them, you'll have the best view of the noodle pulling in the open kitchen at the back. A chef rhythmically slaps and stretches dough and two giant pots of beef broth bubble away—for eight hours, until the broth is rich and cloudy. Taste that broth in the signature beef noodle soup, which has fall-apart meat and a glittery red pool of smoky chili oil. You'll choose between seven options of varying noodle thickness, so get the regular to start, then come back six times to try the rest, including the thickest, prism-shaped noodles. There’s usually a short line out front, but it moves quickly.