Jeffrey Stout has clearly settled in to his position at the helm of this international gem, packed with a crowd of loyal fans, despite its rather modest shopping-center locale. Polished yet casual with a large front bar and patio, a meal here is best enjoyed with a group—so come prepared to max out the menu. Dishes may spin in various directions, but this team won't steer your wrong. Kick off with a cocktail; then tuck into fresh hamachi enriched with avocado-dill purée, persimmon, and deliciously tart sunomono. Garnished with peanuts and served with chili oil, those delicate shrimp-and-pork dumplings are an evergreen hit. For dessert, olive oil cake with lime-brittle popcorn and roasted corn custard delivers a pleasing contrast in flavor and texture.