At the door of the Faena Hotel—a Buenos Aires import by way of Miami—someone in a white tuxedo and a comically tall top hat ushers you in. La Boca, the hotel’s restaurant, is just as over the top, full of red velvet and chandeliers, with Chef’s Table star Francis Mallmann behind the menu, and a five-piece jazz band in the dining room. Mallmann is best known for his open-fire cooking, but although you’ll find branzino a la plancha and a $265 parillada among the pastas and tuna crudo here, don’t expect any visible flames. There aren’t too many fireworks either—some pillowy gnocchi are charred with a nice crunch, and a “Tower” of layered beef and potatoes is better than your average hotel restaurant fare, but the food generally plays it safe, while still being pretty expensive. But if you just went on a four-digit shopping spree around the Meatpacking District and need a soft landing for dinner, go ahead and settle in for some meat, potatoes and a glass of Mendoza.