When you walk into Max’s Es-Ca, you’ll feel like you’re at a dinner party being thrown by a friend who just read three Martha Stewart books about hosting. Do you want to sit at a table for six even though you’re only a party of two? Are you in the mood for a burger at dinner even though it’s only supposed to be available for lunch? Does some bacon sound good in the bacon-less spinach fettuccine? The team at this Italian spot on Staten Island will accommodate any reasonable request—and the food here is really good. We like to start with the arugula salad with a generous amount of tender grilled octopus followed by the perfectly al dente rigatoni with crispy bits of prosciutto and cubes of smoked mozzarella. Make sure you’re in the mood for filet mignon before coming here, because you shouldn’t leave without ordering the outstanding beef Wellington in a pool of creamy brandy sauce. Max’s Es-Ca is a good excuse to take the ferry if that’s something you haven’t done in a while, and the “whatever makes you happy” attitude here is one reason why you’ll see so many tables around you celebrating special occasions.