Pizza-by-the-slice isn’t the norm in Portland. Baby Doll’s floppy, foldable plain slices to the rescue. They’re as close as you’re going to get to the ones from a typical NYC joint. This Kerns counter-service restaurant, with seating and a full bar, is still pure Portland, though, thanks to a vegan-friendly menu and sides of ranch, the tangy condiment so popular that a local chain proudly named itself Ranch Pizza. If basic slices won’t do, look to the specials (whole pies only), like the #2 that’s a sweet and savory masterpiece with bacon, walnuts, and dates, or the #7 white pie topped with sweet caramelized onions and homemade ricotta on a nutty sesame seed crust. And bonus: Baby Doll stays open later than most on the weekends (12am).