Between the posters of Rocky Marciano and Joe DiMaggio, and Louis Prima blasting over the speakers, Lucky Charlie feels like it’s been in Bushwick for generations. And in a way, it has—the kitchen houses what they claim is NYC’s oldest operational coal oven, which baked its first loaf of bread in 1890. Now that oven turns discs of dough into bubbly, charred pizzas until 3am, five days a week. It’s the best late-night pizza you’re going to find anywhere in the city—but Lucky Charlie’s pies are worth seeking out before sunset too. The restaurant is from the owner of mini-chain Williamsburg Pizza, but the pies here aren’t the kind that you’ll see in his slice shops. They’re not perfect circles, and they’re cut into haphazard, uneven triangles. It’s a small detail, but it adds to the feeling that this spot has been around since before the invention of the pizza cutter—just as much as the rickety chairs with bouncy leather seats or the photos on the walls. The rest of the menu (available until 10pm) roughly follows an Italian American playbook: cannelloni stuffed with creamy ricotta and clumps of fennel-heavy sausage, a decadent caesar with plenty of lemon in the dressing, terra cotta bowls of pasta al forno, and of course a stellar tiramisu. You might also encounter a tuna crudo with fig leaf oil that seems to have snuck out of a seasonal small plates spot for a little old-school Italian fun—and it somehow fits right in. Come for an early dinner, or stay as late as you would at any other bar in the neighborhood—the cocktails are served until 4am, and start at $11, with upgraded classics, like a spritz with Mezzoddi or a Negroni with local gin. Either way, become a regular before this place really does become a century-old staple.