1618 Asian Fusion on East Riverside wears a lot of hats. Dim sum brunch? Check. Pho, pad thai, and peking duck? On the menu. The menu cites Vietnamese, Thai, Chinese, Singaporean, and Southeast Asian influences, which means you’ll see a little bit from a lot of places. And despite the location and somewhat rough parking situation, the massive, airy dining room does a surprisingly good job of making you forget you’re in a strip mall at the bottom of an apartment complex on East Riverside. Show up on the weekends for 1618’s excellent dim sum brunch, complete with all the classics—like xiao long bao, har kaw, and sui mai—plus cocktails and mimosas, by the glass or by the bottle. It’s difficult to wear as many hats as 1618 does without looking silly, but somehow the restaurant pulls it off in a way that’s rare to see.