Some of Zermatt’s hotels might strike you as overly refined, but the Matthiol Boutique Hotel positively luxuriates in its rustic texture. The exterior, in rough-hewn stone and weathered wood, blends perfectly with its surroundings, on a hillside beneath the towering Matterhorn. From the exterior, the only hint at anything approaching modernity is the understated sans-serif Matthiol logo. But inside you’ll find an environment rich with contrast: beneath the unfinished beams and timbers of the ceiling are interiors that are nothing if not soothingly sophisticated. The best rooms face the Matterhorn itself, while others look at the Gornergrat, which is scarcely less scenic. Many of them come with balconies, and while all are spacious enough, the Spa rooms positively sprawl, and contain private saunas, hammams, and striking freestanding tubs. There’s a proper communal spa as well, with a steam grotto, a couple of saunas, and an outdoor jacuzzi. You’ll need it, winter or summer — this is paradise for hikers, bikers, and skiers alike. And the restaurant, for that reason, is suitably hearty: Filet et Fils is a modern grill serving painstakingly sourced meats and local produce — and, in winter, a classic fondue, served in private igloos that seat four.