With a name like Cavar Russe, there’s no ambiguity about what sort of experience is on offer: a parade of luxury ingredients with eye-watering prices to match. Diners are led up a marble staircase at this posh jewel box, where views looking out over Madison Avenue below feel classically New York Offerings of the namesake range from a relatively attainable dollop of Pacific Sturgeon to 500-gram tins of Osetra that cost more than first-class tickets to the Caspian Sea. The French-inflected menu, available as either a prix fixe or à la carte, straddles classic and contemporary, as in fresh pasta agnolotti stuffed with chestnuts, dressed with black trumpet mushrooms and gilded by Périgord black truffle and foam. Dover sole is elegantly plated, stuffed with fish mousse, and draped with a refined curry cream sauce.