An experience at Thomas Keller’s Per Se is one to be savored, recounted and remembered. In a city where space itself is a luxury, the dining room is impressively scaled, offering both stellar views of Central Park as well as precious privacy from table to table. As for the cooking, the French kitchen closely aligns itself with the seasons, sourcing best-in-class product and preparing them with razor-sharp refinement. Signatures like “Oysters and Pearls” or the grand dessert finale are reliable, thrilling bookends. What happens in between is a mature study in confidence and class. An effortlessly choreographed service team rises to the occasion, lending a personable, gracious touch to a dinner that radiates class and comfort.