On one of our visits to Lem’s, it was 1pm on a Friday, 30 degrees, and there was a line of people wrapped around the building. And like its sign and signature chimney, this BBQ shack is an icon. But after 70 years of serving smoked meat in Greater Grand Crossing, this Chicago classic has still got it—and that “it” is excellent BBQ. There are two parts to Lem’s excellence, and the first is what you can see through the windows: the aquarium smoker. That fish tank-looking box full of meat is the reason Chicago-style BBQ is called “aquarium smoked,” which is Lem’s specialty. It’s also the secret behind the deep hickory and charcoal flavor of their ribs and rib tips. The second part of the Lem’s experience is their signature mild sauce. It’s vinegary, sweet, and slightly spicy—a miracle liquid that tastes good on their ribs, fried chicken, and fried shrimp. Hell, it transforms the slices of white bread and just-okay fries that come with each dish into incredible morsels. Just be aware the only space to eat is a narrow, sloped ledge wrapped around the building—which is a feasible dining option if you show up and there isn’t a line. So coming here might involve using your car’s hood as a picnic table. But even if you decide to wait to enjoy your Lem’s at home, the “when” and “where” you eat it doesn’t really matter when it comes to Chicago BBQ greatness.