Come into Baja Subs for a pack of cigarettes, some air freshener, or a Gatorade, and you'll leave with a takeout container filled with Sri Lankan egg roti and string hoppers. This tiny counter in the back of a Northridge convenience store has the sort of classic LA set-up that might make out-of-towners tilt their heads. It's in a strip mall, there are just a few tables, and the menu combines seemingly disparate cuisines. (A sign out front says “Mexican grill” and they sell cold-cut sandwiches and burritos that absolutely nobody orders.) But to call this Sri Lankan deli counter a "hidden gem" or treat it like the hook for a cool story would be underselling its legend. This is one of the best places to eat in LA, period. Around this point in our restaurant reviews, we usually talk about a specific dish that you shouldn't leave without ordering. We can’t do that with Baja Subs, simply because we could argue every dish on the menu is the dish. Once, we drove on a flat tire in Friday night rush hour simply for their thin garlicky noodles. They're so soft and light, it's easy to forget you're even chewing. The kottu roti—chopped roti stir-fried with eggs, onions and carrots, shredded chicken, chiles, curry, and warming spices—has the kind of expert textural variation that makes our eyes gloss over while we eat it. And pineapple chutney-topped biryani is one of the most memorable versions in town. If it's your first time, you'll try one bite of each dish and immediately berate yourself for taking this long to meet them. Don't let the convenience store setup fool you. We fully endorse having a sit-down meal at Baja Subs. Every dish is made to order, so don't be surprised if your egg-filled roti or lump rice takes 30 or 40 minutes to come out of the kitchen. If you're short on time, opt for takeout by calling them directly (they aren't listed on any apps). Whether you end up dining in or picking up, Baja Subs' setting breaks most traditional restaurant rules. But none of that matters, really. What you'll remember is the tremendous Sri Lankan food in front of you. The bottles of Gatorade and packs of Marlboros are just bonuses on your way out.