Behind an understated small gold sign with a fez, Ayah in Soho dazzles. Points of light from the lamps above dance over intricately carved archways and hand-painted ceilings, and you can expect a pedestrian traffic jam as you wait for fellow diners to wrap a photo shoot in the leopard print-carpeted stairwell of this Moroccan restaurant from the Maison Close people. It’s a great setting for a tipsy birthday, fueled by live music and belly dancing on some nights, and complimentary mint tea-infused vodka shots poured from a silver teapot. Move on from those shots to a harissa and prickly pear margarita, or the head-scratchingly delicious Climbing Goats, a frothy mezcal cocktail with pistachio arak and goat-cheese funk shimmying in the background. The food isn’t totally the point, but it won’t let you down either. Try the chhiwat tower of dips and salads to go with all those excellent cocktails, and a rich, fatty rack of lamb, sliced tableside.
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