Wander up to Ken’s Fish Bar, day or night, and you should expect a wait. Not just because the cash-only chippy in Dulwich is immensely popular, but because at Ken’s, every piece of fish is fried fresh. Expect to see locals wander in, give a nod, and order ‘the usual’. They leave smiling with steaming packages, while van drivers outside have mounted the curb to inhale scampi in the front seat. The result of the fresh fry is excellent: bronzed and jagged slabs, with still-moist fish inside the batter. It’s not always the case elsewhere, but Ken’s is worth the wait.