Rather than calling itself a bakery, this Flatiron spot is billed as “a gallery of confections.” You start your experience by heading up a set of concrete stairs to a minimalist gallery that wouldn’t be out of place in the Chelsea art world—only instead of paintings, the folks milling about the space are analyzing resin replicas of what they’re about to order. Unlike some viral desserts, the confections at Lyseé actually taste good. The bulk of their signature items are made with mousses, custards, and creams, like the Corn mousse cake (which looks like an actual ear of corn) and the caramel-praline Lyseé that’s such a standout they literally named it after the place. There are also cookies, viennoiserie, and a trio of loaf cakes if jiggly creams aren’t your thing. Even though sweets are the only thing on the menu, this is a real, serious restaurant, and we highly recommend you get your food to stay. The flatware is matte gold, the tables are a speckled background-beige, and the signature latte, made with a brown-rice-and-vanilla-infused milk, is served in a clear double-walled mug so you can see the drink’s frothy layers. At present, Lysee doesn’t take reservations or online orders. You might have to stand in an hour-long line for your desserts, but they’ll serve you a little cup of iced chamomile tea while you wait your turn to wander the aisles of pastry. Once you get there, you can engage in the time-honored New York gallery debate: Is it art?