A mural of a steer watches over the parking lot with the words “All Hail the King” in bold lettering, and firewood stacked to the roof overlooks a gravel patio set with picnic tables. A thick haze of smoke wafts in the air. Welcome to Texas by way of the Lowcountry. John Lewis, who earned a name for himself when he opened LA Barbecue in Austin, has brought with him all things smoke and beef. Beautiful, near-melting slivers of brisket and the weekend-only beef rib are essential orders, sold by the pound and sliced in front of you at the counter. Sides like green chili corn pudding and potato salad are also excellent additions. By this point, few will have room for dessert, but perhaps consider ordering a banana pudding. It’s worth the extra bite.