At the front of Lanzhou Lamian Noodle Bar is a starkly lit mini buffet counter filled with glowing orange pieces and piles of Singapore noodles. There’s nothing wrong with loading up a box from here, but it might feel inadequate given there’s a chef pummelling handmade noodle dough and twirling it like a marshmallow twist inches away. The barely marked Chinese spot in Covent Garden is home to some of London’s best made-to-order noodles. The stripped-back space is utilitarian as is the service. Plop yourself down on one of the shared tables and get someone’s attention as soon as possible. Noodles la mian (hand-pulled) or dao xiao mian (knife-cut) are your choices. The former are round and slippery, the latter flat and chewy. Both are top-tier and the broth for soups, depending on the day, can be good too.