A shiny South Beach steakhouse that exudes wealth and exclusivity. You’ve heard this one before. But even though The Joyce is expensive, has a doorman, and a Basquiat on the wall, it follows through once you’ve taken a seat. The food is detailed, the service is skilled, and it all complements a room where you can’t help but feel a little famous. The Joyce doesn’t feel like a restaurant. It feels like the private dining room of a restaurant that publicists call ahead to reserve for clients too big to eat with civilians. Everyone can make eye contact with each other from any seat in the house. You will not get lost on the way to the bathroom. Although, if you’re heading into the men’s, you will be frozen for a moment by a gallery wall our lawyers won’t let us describe in vivid detail. The Joyce’s tiny size makes you feel lucky to have gotten a reservation, even though they’re not too hard to come by. It also keeps the noise level reasonable and the service intimate. Servers check in like you’re the only thing on their mind. The menu is that of a steakhouse in its rebellious teenage years. There are good, fussy versions of the classics: shrimp scampi, creamed kale subbing in for spinach, and the most beautiful ribeye in Miami Beach. But there’s also Shanghai firecracker chicken, an unjustifiable $100 french dip, and fried snapper doing an impression of a Taco Bell Crunchwrap. If you’re not paying, feel free to indulge in the overpriced social media fodder. But even though it longs to throw curveballs, The Joyce is at its best when it plays it straight with steakhouse staples. Everything is expensive, which is why the space is typically populated by tourists or locals capable of living every day like they’re on vacation. The restaurant has the usual dress code—no shorts, hats, or flip-flops—and it justifies an outfit that makes you feel mysterious and important. If you’re looking for a more reasonable meal, go to The Joyce’s casual burger window outside, where they embrace families in beach clothes who want to eat cheeseburgers and suck down milkshakes on the sidewalk.