This European small plates spot feels way more neighborhoody than its Dean Street location suggests. Natural wine flows, the soundtrack is strictly vinyl, and people who own a whippet sit elbow-to-elbow at the bar. Dishes change depending on what’s in season but are always lush. So come with someone you’re happy being close to and dunk bread in whipped labneh with dukkah, fork mackerel with crunchy winter tomatoes or sweet, soft ones come summer, and share roast chicken with buttery potatoes. It’s all satisfying stuff to pick at while working your way through the wine list.