Since opening in 2006, Nopa has been a San Francisco staple. It’s like a little slice of the neighborhood it’s named after—just look to the celebratory murals, which pay tribute to the area’s jazz roots and highlights nearby institutions like Eddie’s Cafe and The Independent. Almost two decades later, this is still one of the few places in the city that truly works for any dressed-up occasion. Walk into the two-story restaurant and you’re transported to a live version of a Renaissance banquet portrait with a blazing wood oven and ceiling beams in every shade of sexy, candle-lit brown. It’s a pretty idyllic setting in here—just where you want to kick back with a glass of pinot noir while splitting the farmers market-inflected dishes this place is known for. The menu of shareables and entrées changes daily, but tuned-in Nopa fans know that certain staples never leave. There’s the pork chop, a glistening hunk of meat we could easily devote this entire review to. Other mainstays are the bubbling wood-baked beans, and a rotating flatbread piled with whatever produce is fresh that week. Then, there’s the famous burger, which we once called “near perfect.” Now, the inch-thick patty more closely resembles a fully cooked meatball—it’s simply an overwhelmingly beefy bite. While plenty decent, the burger is no longer the reason to get to Nopa. Stick with the other more interesting seasonal dishes instead. It’s easy to have a great time here. Come in, admire the mural, order your pork chop, and get a teensy bit wine drunk. Lots has changed in San Francisco since 2006, but a new skyline and four Warriors championships later, we still consider this place essential to celebrations in the city. Get here for a milestone birthday, a farewell to the Bay meal, or a solo date at the bar that’ll have you falling in love with SF all over again.