The experience at this lively Madrileño tavern from 1892 isn’t for anyone who wants a quiet meal in a comfortable seat. It's always full of tourists, locals looking to let their hair down, and neighborhood abuelos, drinking Pilsner shoulder-to-shoulder around wooden barrels (it's usually standing-room-only unless you’re lucky enough to snag a coveted stool). Although there’s a small back area more apt for dining (you’ll have to duck under the bar counter to get there), the front, where everyone is day drinking and hanging out with friends, is more fun. The walls are covered from floor to ceiling with dusty liquor bottles, vintage photos, and chalkboards scribbled with the day’s offerings—but don’t bother getting into the menu, and just order their historic tortilla de patata. The house recipe uses an exact number of potatoes, chopped to a specific size before they’re combined with eggs and onion and fried up to serve. The salmorejo, Córdoba’s version of gazpacho, is creamy and filling, and if you’re extra-hungry, order plates piled high with Iberian ham, crisped croquetas, huevos rotos, or stewed tripe.