A bowl of Northern-style phở from this low-key Richmond spot will inspire you to pledge your allegiance to broth. This place looks like most other casual phở places in town: a simple dining room set-up, wide white bowls, and soup spoons stacked at the ready on every table. The soups here are either chicken- or beef-based, and they’re loaded with umami from your choice of meat. The rice noodles stay chewy, and slivers of ginger and green onions add a zippy crunch. And hoisin is deemed “Not Available” on the menu, so don’t even think about asking (not that you’ll need it). For some heat, round out your order with the bún chá, a saucy and spicy pork-fest that’ll make you break a little sweat on your upper lip.