The towering ceilings and green-and-gold detailing set the stage for the ghosts of this Art Deco brasserie to come to life—regulars once included the likes of Josephine Baker and Édith Piaf. Insiders know to skip the à la carte offerings and instead focus their attention on the seafood platters and the bars flanking the dining room, where master shuckers pry open oysters at one end faster than bartenders can pop corks at the other. Pair your raw seafood on ice with a seafood-driven appetizer, like celery remoulade generously topped with crab and Granny Smith apple or leek vinaigrette elevated with creamy tonnato sauce, and a bottle of Champagne—after a few glasses, F. Scott Fitzgerald might come out of the woodwork.