On the theme of ‘playing with fire’, the chef finds ingenious variations on flame and preparation, resulting in yakitori full of variation and surprises. Smoky aromas billow from wing tips grilled over a wood flame. Helmeted guinea fowl, deep-fried with minimal oil, is an idea borrowed from tempura. Duck is char-grilled and swaddled in ankake sauce. Chicken paté and fruit skewers cleanse the palate between courses. You never know what’s coming next, and that’s part of the fun.