What makes this post-war brasserie beloved by locals is that it’s one of the last remaining spots in town that stay open 24/7, or nearly as the staff gets to snooze from 5am to 8am. Have an itch for best-in-class onion soup at 1am? A seafood platter at 4am? Or maybe pig’s trotter—among the house’s porky specialties—served with crisp fries mid-morning? Come here. This bustling institution first opened in 1947 in Les Halles, and has been a reliable presence ever since. Parisians, tourists galore, and night owls come for the legend as much as for the varied menu, delivered to the table with a pig snout so you know what you’re in for.