This is the kind of strip mall restaurant everyone prays they live within takeout distance of. There’s not much to the narrow dining room—the excitement lives on the two-page menu of Mexican dishes with big swings of citrus, spice, and a smoky mole. Make sure you get some of that mole, maybe to round out some shrimp cocktail in a goblet that requires two hands to grasp or four generously stuffed enchiladas swimming in salsa verde. Whether you eat in or take out, the restaurant is a great choice for a casual dinner, or as a handy backup plan if the wait at Larb Thai-Isan is too long (they share a strip mall).