The latest, charmingly run opening from experienced restaurateur Jeremy King bears all the hallmarks of his most famous establishments: it’s big; it’s buzzy; it’s got an extensive, eminently appealing menu; and it’s just the right amount of plush, being simultaneously elegant and understated. The cooking looks to Italy and America for inspiration, delivering everything from a lobster roll to chicken Milanese. ‘The Park Monkey Bread’ tear-and-share would be a fine way to begin, as would a cocktail in the bar.