Even though it opened in 2017, Bouillon Pigalle is a time warp, a neo-bouillon bringing back the effervescence of Paris’ working-class staples. Servers are dressed in black vests and white aprons. There’s a €2.50 egg-mayo on the menu, and wine served by the liter. You’ll also need to yell to be heard over the din in the two-story, 300-seat space—but that’s half the fun. Settle into a red leather banquette and feast on slow-cooked beef bourguignon, cottage pie with lamb, and the house cream puff drizzled with chocolate sauce. The queues here are legendary, but the service is as quick and orchestrated as a can-can line at the Moulin Rouge. And since they’re open en continu from noon to midnight, come during off-hours (2:30pm-6pm) for a better chance of sauntering right in.