At Wonton Charlie’s, come early, and come hungry. The walk-in Hong Kong-style noodle soup bar in London Fields is only open from 11am-3pm, and while the queue looks quicker than it is, it’s worth a short wait. Inside, it’s cosy chaos. You can hear—and subtly feel—trains rumbling above this converted railway arch, and diners hunch over bowls of noodles, backpacks still strapped on, with absolutely no interest in anything other than the meaty wontons in front of them. At the counter, chefs scoop broth and garnish bowls at lightning speed, steam fully in their faces like a not-so-relaxing sauna. If you’re lucky enough to sit up here rather than the stools lining the room, you’ll get a steamy broth facial too, promising exactly what everyone has waited in line for: comfort in a bowl. Portions are deeply satisfying—six plump wontons, starchy noodles, and a fish broth that’s flavourful without being salty. Skip the crispy fish skin, but do get involved in the complimentary Chinese tea while you wait for your noodles.