In 2024, The Corner Store debuted with bumps of caviar and servers in custom suits. The place was a hit, with a line to prove it. Sister restaurant The Eighty Six came next, and it was pretty much the same story. Or’esh, across from The Corner Store in Soho, is the third in the team’s clubstaurant-lite trilogy. This time around the suits are toffee-brown, the bar stools are corduroy, and despite a few attention-grabbing chandeliers, the food is the main focus. If you need a place to wear animal print and eat something impressive, it's worth struggling for a reservation. Unlike its siblings, who do upscale American with shades of Applebee’s, Or’esh is broadly Mediterranean. But, of course, the place doesn’t play it straight. Most dishes have some sort of “cool” element (look, ratatouille on a skewer) that would read gimmicky if the food weren’t so good. You probably don’t need the potato pastels topped with caviar, but do get the honey-soaked halloumi encased in kataifi and Jerusalem bagel in a puddle of olive oil. The short rib—so soft you can cut with a spoon—is another great choice, even if it costs $87.