The bánh mì at this strip mall shop in Monterey Park should come with a “some assembly required” label. Each one comes packaged with just bread and meat in one box, and baggies of herbs, pickled vegetables, and soy-and-oyster sauce on the side, which means no risk of sogginess before you’re ready to eat (this should also tell you how seriously they take the bánh mì). Make sure to order the crackly fried pork belly (the house specialty) as your filling—it adds another layer of crunch to the fresh baguettes.