Glendale’s most viral sandwich maker (formerly known as III Mas) has graduated from an industrial ghost kitchen to a tiny brick-and-mortar dining room near the border with Burbank. The famous Armenian basturma brisket, made from brined and smoked Australian wagyu, is melty and tender enough to impress even the most seasoned pitmaster (and we should know, after sampling barbecue all over Texas last year). Drenched in cheesy mornay sauce and topped with sharp pickles on a perfectly charred pita, it’s the kind of meal you’ll keep thinking about all night, if only because the smell of smoked meat on your hands will be a reminder. The caveats? One sandwich costs an eye-watering $38, and it can take up to half an hour to arrive. But you could easily split one with a friend and be full. The new restaurant space also comes with a new menu of Armenian and Middle Eastern dishes, like a delicate Iraqi fish curry and sweet, earthy lentil kyuftah lettuce wraps. Those other dishes don’t quite live up to the sandwich, but they’re a nice way to round out the meal—and get some necessary vegetables with all that smoked beef.