A household name, founded in 1900; its handmade xiao long bao with paper-thin skin and juicy pork filling still attract a constant queue at the door. Along with the regular buns, try also those with seasonal fillings, or the oversized ‘super’ buns served with a straw for sucking up the soup. Refurbished in 2018, the dining room is modern and airy. Book a private room with friends or be prepared to wait in line.