In the movies, Downtown steakhouses are a classy affair, with white tablecloths, flickering candles, towering shrimp cocktails, and thin-stemmed wine glasses that could double as fish bowls. We’re talking about places where the sounds of clinking martini glasses and plates hitting the table are accents to the big-band jazz playing over the speakers. In some ways, Dean’s is formulaic, because it has all of those things. But most importantly, it’s a place with very good food—where you can escape the hustle of Downtown for a few hours, thumb through a massive textbook of wines, and order as much Japanese A5 wagyu steak as your wallet will allow. You’re not here for culinary innovation or trendsetting dishes. You’re here to step into a movie and eat great meat.