Eating at this anything-but-stuffy French restaurant feels a bit like getting a hug from a friend who’s wearing a very soft cashmere sweater. There’s a lot to love about this charming hideaway off of Roosevelt, like all the orange wine, low-ABV cocktails, and unpretentious takes on classic French dishes. Start with the baked brie or caper-topped tartare before moving on to the steamed mussels bathed in fumet with creme fraiche.